Mortgage Refinance Calculator
Compare your existing mortgage to a refinance offer side-by-side. The calculator computes monthly payment savings, break-even months (the time needed for savings to repay closing costs), total interest saved, and the cash-flow impact across the life of both loans.
Inputs Explained
- Current Loan Balance: How much you still owe on your existing mortgage.
- Current Interest Rate: Annual rate (APR) on the existing loan.
- Remaining Term: Years left on the existing loan.
- New Interest Rate: Quoted rate on the refinance offer.
- New Term: Length of the new loan (often 15 or 30 years).
- Closing Costs: Lender fees, title, appraisal, taxes; typically 2–5% of loan amount.
- Cash-Out Amount: If pulling equity: the additional cash you'll receive at closing.
How it Works
Each loan's monthly payment uses the standard amortization formula. The new principal = current balance + closing costs (if rolled in) + cash-out. Break-even months = closing costs / monthly savings. Lifetime interest is computed by summing each scheduled payment minus the principal portion. If the new term is longer, you may pay LESS per month but MORE total interest — the calculator flags this clearly.
The Formula
P_new = current_balance + closing_costs + cash_out Pay_new = P × r × (1+r)^n / [(1+r)^n − 1] (r = monthly rate, n = months) Savings/mo = Pay_old − Pay_new Break-even = Closing_Costs / Savings/mo Total_Int = (Pay × n) − P
Last reviewed: May 2026
Mortgage Refinance Calculator
Break-even months · monthly savings · lifetime interest comparison
Frequently Asked Questions
Break-even point = Total closing costs / Monthly savings from refinancing. Example: refinancing saves $250/month, closing costs are $6,000. Break-even = 6000/250 = 24 months. If you plan to stay in the home longer than that, refinancing makes sense. Sell or move before break-even, and you've lost money on the deal. Include all costs — origination fees, appraisal, title, points, escrow setup. Some lenders offer "no-cost" refinances where costs are baked into a slightly higher rate; the math still applies. The calculator computes break-even with custom closing cost and savings inputs.
Generally worth it when the new rate is at least 0.75-1% lower than your current rate, and you'll stay in the home long enough to recover closing costs. Example: $400,000 mortgage at 7%, refinanced to 6% saves about $260/month. Closing costs of $8,000 break even in 31 months. Other reasons to refinance: switching from ARM to fixed, removing PMI, shortening the loan term, or cash-out for renovations. Run the numbers — don't refinance just because rates dropped. Closing costs and resetting the term can offset rate savings. The calculator shows total lifetime savings.
Closing costs typically run 2-5% of the loan amount — origination fees, appraisal ($500-$700), title insurance, recording fees, escrow setup, and discount points. On a $300,000 refinance, that's $6,000-$15,000. These costs reduce net savings. Example: monthly savings of $200 sounds great, but with $9,000 closing costs, break-even is 45 months. If you sell at year 3, you've actually lost money. Some lenders roll costs into the loan balance — you finance them, increasing total interest paid. Always compute true net savings, not just rate difference. The calculator factors closing costs into break-even and lifetime savings.
Lower rate keeps the same term — lower payment, but you reset the clock. Shorter term (e.g., 30-year to 15-year) usually has a slightly lower rate plus much faster payoff and dramatically lower total interest. Example: $300,000 at 7% for 30 years = $719,000 total paid. Refinance to 15-year at 6% = $456,000 total paid — saves $263,000 in interest. Monthly payment is higher though ($2,532 vs $1,996). If you can afford the higher payment, shorter-term refinance wins long-term. If cash flow is tight, keep the rate cut and longer term. The calculator compares both scenarios.
Savings = (Old monthly payment − New monthly payment) × remaining term, minus closing costs. Example: $400,000 mortgage at 7%, 25 years remaining, monthly payment $2,827. Refinance to 6% over new 25-year term — payment drops to $2,577. Monthly savings $250. Over 25 years, that's $75,000. Subtract $8,000 closing costs = $67,000 net savings. But if you reset to a fresh 30-year term, savings change because of extended timeline. Always compare apples-to-apples. The calculator shows lifetime interest savings and monthly cash flow impact for various refinance scenarios.
Resetting to a new 30-year mortgage extends the timeline — you start over on amortization, paying mostly interest in the early years again. Even at a lower rate, total interest paid can exceed the original loan if you've already been paying for years. Example: 8 years into a 30-year, refinancing back to 30 years adds 8 years of payments. Lower monthly payment helps cash flow, but lifetime interest can balloon. Better option: refinance to a term matching your remaining years (22 years in this case). Most lenders offer custom terms. The calculator highlights this trade-off clearly.
Discount points are upfront fees paid to lower your interest rate — typically 1 point = 1% of loan amount, reducing rate by 0.25%. Example: $300,000 loan, 1 point ($3,000) drops rate from 6.25% to 6%. Monthly savings ~$45. Break-even on points alone = 3000/45 = 67 months. Adds to overall closing costs and break-even. Worth buying points if you'll stay in the home long-term and have cash on hand. Not worth it if break-even is too far out. The calculator factors discount points into refinance break-even and shows whether points pay off.
Understanding the Mortgage Refinance Calculator
Worked Example
Old loan: $280,000 balance, 6.5%, 25 years remaining (originally 30 years). Payment: $1,890/mo.
Refi offer: 5.5% for new 30 years, $6,000 closing rolled in. New principal: $286,000. Payment: $1,624/mo.
- Monthly savings: $1,890 − $1,624 = $266/mo
- Break-even: $6,000 / $266 = 23 months
- Total interest old: ~$287k · Total interest new: ~$298k
- Net 30-yr interest: +$5,000 MORE (longer term offsets rate drop)
- Verdict: refinance saves cash flow in the short run but costs more total interest. Better choice: refi at 15-year if affordable.
Comparison Table
| Old → New rate | Monthly savings ($300k) | Break-even (5k cc) | Lifetime interest saved |
|---|---|---|---|
| 7.5% → 6.5% | $203 | 25 mo | ~$48,000 |
| 7.0% → 6.0% | $200 | 25 mo | ~$45,000 |
| 6.5% → 5.5% | $197 | 26 mo | ~$42,000 |
| 6.0% → 5.5% | $96 | 52 mo | ~$19,000 |
| 6.0% → 5.75% | $48 | 105 mo | ~$8,000 |
Assumes $300k balance, fresh 30-year term, $5k closing costs paid upfront.
Use Cases
- Rate-and-term refi: lower the rate, keep the term roughly the same.
- Term shortening: 30-year → 15-year to slash lifetime interest.
- Cash-out: tap home equity for renovations or debt consolidation.
- ARM to fixed: lock in a rate before an adjustment date.
- PMI removal: refi out of FHA into conventional once you have 20% equity.
Glossary
- APR
- Annual Percentage Rate — the all-in cost of borrowing including most fees, expressed as a yearly rate.
- LTV
- Loan-to-Value ratio — loan amount ÷ home value. Cash-out refis typically capped at 80% LTV.
- Discount Points
- Upfront fee (1% of loan = 1 point) paid to lower the rate; useful if you'll keep the loan past the breakeven for the points themselves.
- Streamline / IRRRL
- FHA and VA programs allowing simplified refis with reduced underwriting.
Sources & References
- CFPB Refinance Guide — Government consumer guide to refinancing decisions.
- Freddie Mac PMMS — Weekly survey of average 30-year and 15-year mortgage rates.
- FHFA Refinance Programs — Federal Housing Finance Agency information on conforming refis.